Palace of Ghosts: Singapore's Untold History

TL;DR – Tokugawa’s Final Visit to Johor (and What It Reveals) In early December 1941, Marquis Yoshichika Tokugawa returned to Malaya—this time in military uniform, as a key adviser to the Japanese 25th Army. Though not a soldier, he was viewed as the Emperor’s trusted emissary. His close friendship with Sultan Ibrahim of Johor proved critical: Johor became the launchpad for Japan’s final push into Singapore. As Japanese generals moved into Istana Bukit Serene—converting its tower into a command post—Tokugawa walked a fine line between diplomacy, loyalty, and personal conviction. Meanwhile, the Sultan, declining evacuation, gambled his life on that friendship. The rest is well-documented history: Singapore fell, the Sultan survived, and Tokugawa escaped trial—shielded, perhaps, by his imperial proximity. But who was Tokugawa really? A monarchist imperialist? A humanist scholar? A spy, a reformer, or both? His story in the Fall of Singapore is largely unknown. But what hidden role did he...

In the last post, we followed Marquis Yoshichika Tokugawa on his first visit to Singapore in 1921—a seemingly low-key personal trip. But Japan’s presence in the region was anything but recent. From the decades old trafficked sex workers trade to growing business networks, Tokugawa arrived as a ground swell of presence was taking place. In Part 3, we trace its evolution—from rising commercial interest to far murkier pursuits. Read Part 2 here

The previous post explored the theme of historical memory in the lead-up to VJ Day, focusing on the Fall of Singapore in 1942. It introduced Marquis Yoshichika Tokugawa—a largely overlooked figure whose role in those dramatic events has long remained in the shadows. He is one of several key figures whose hidden stories form the untold history at the heart of Palace of Ghosts , all of them intricately connected to the Palace that gives the book its name. In this second post of the series, we begin to unravel his story and ask: Who was Tokugawa? Read Part 1 here Hunter, Scholar, Nobleman The life Sultan Ibrahim of Johor reads like an epic novel—an extraordinary blend of adventure, intrigue and romance. But while the Sultan’s story often steals the spotlight, Palace of Ghosts reveals a cast of equally fascinating characters who shaped his destiny in profound and sometimes surprising ways. One of the most compelling figures in this saga is Marquis Yoshichika Tokugawa—a Japanese aristoc...

VJ Day Victory over Japan Day, the day that World War II (WWII) ended in Asia, is commemorated around the world on both August 15th, when Japan surrendered in 1945, and on September 2 when the surrender documents were formally signed, also in 1945. As the anniversary of VJ Day draws near, ceremonies and reflections will unfold around the world. In Malaysia and Singapore, however, the date passes with relatively little official recognition. The Japanese invasion of Malaya and Singapore, including the Fall of Singapore on February 15, 1942, and ending with Japan’s surrender three and a half years later, remains a defining but selectively remembered chapter in Southeast Asian history. An AI-generated image of Lieutenant General Arthur Percival surrendering to General Yamashita (generated using ChatGPT, June 2025,  prompt: Percival surrendering to Yamashita) Historical Memory: What We Remember ... Or Forget Certain events, and associated images, have become iconic. Some contemporaneous...

Tyersall Estate Deal Raises Eyebrows—and Ghosts of the Past The Tyersall estate—where the overgrown ruins of Istana Woodneuk still stand shrouded in tangled greenery—burst back into the headlines this week after a land deal between the Regent of Johor, Tunku Ismail Ibrahim, and the Singapore government. The once-grand palace, now a silent shell hidden behind the Botanic Gardens, has long been the subject of public fascination. This latest development raises fresh questions—not only about real estate, but about the layers of history buried beneath the estate’s moss-covered foundations. Learn more in Palace of Ghosts For years, any hope of development had been stymied by the Singapore government’s zoning restrictions, which designated the Tyersall land for “special use.” But now, a deal has been struck. A portion of the Regent’s land will be swapped for a nearby government-owned plot. Here’s the irony: the land the government is giving up was originally acquired in 2005 through a compuls...

  A turn of the 20th century Singapore postcard showing Tyersall Palace, or Istana Tyersall Most people, as they go about their daily business in Singapore, pay little attention to road names other than remembering where they are for one reason or another. Some may make a mental note that it is a Chinese, Malay, or Tamil-sounding name or one that is left over from colonial times. For a few people, such as Brenda Yeoh, a Professor of Social Sciences at the National University of Singapore and author of several books on the subject, road names are a consuming passion. She has written extensively on the topic including Street Names in Colonial Singapore (1992) and Street-Naming and Nation-Building: Toponymic Inscriptions of Nationhood in Singapore (1996). Such books offer a fascinating spyglass through which to better understand urban history. About a quarter of all road names in Singapore today bear names which tie back to the British colonial period, when roads were first laid dow...

  The abandoned Istana Woodneuk in 2021, the inspiration for Palace of Ghosts The English newspaper The Guardian recently ran an article titled “ Decay and discovery: the allure of abandoned sites in Malaysia ”. It was written by Dax Ward, a Bangkok-based photographer who specialises in urban exploration, abandoned structures and street portraiture. The newspaper article documents a recent 2,676-kilometre road trip he took in August 2023 through the northern Malay states of Kedah, Perlis, and Penang. His amazing website can be found here . He introduces his subject matter as follows, “Every derelict has its own individual history, but each one is connected in the sense that they are reminders of what once was, what might have been, and what happens when we forget... The allure for urban explorers and photographers lies in identifying and capturing the remaining beauty in these forgotten locations.” Mr. Ward has documented hundreds of abandoned buildings in places such as Thailand,...

Within Singapore's District 10, there is an upmarket neighbourhood named Tanglin. Much of the story of Palace of Ghosts takes place here. While the meaning of Tanglin is believed to be derived from the Teochew Chinese language, meaning “great east hill peaks”, the neighbourhood took its name from a house that was called Tang Leng, built by William Napier in 1854. The location of Tanglin, indicated in red, can be seen on the map of Singapore below.  Historically, this was the first suburb outside the original settlement located around the Singapore River to its southeast. It was considered a desirable location because it was away from the noise, dust and smells of the crowded settlement. It was green and the climate was thought to be better than in the coastal areas. It was reached by Orchard Road which was a track first put down during the 1830s and gradually improved thereafter. As the name suggests, the area was previously used for orchards and plantations, the latter being main...

The starting point for my discovery of Tyersall was a map. I’d like to say it was an antique map retrieved from the bowels of a hidden library: something that Dan Brown might have written about, or an adventure that Indiana Jones might have inadvertently got involved in. However, to me it was more intriguing. It was an online map that I was studying but for a completely unrelated purpose. As I moved my cursor across a patch of forest that I was planning to jog around, I was surprised to see an unusual name pop up and a symbol that indicated a building of historical significance.  It was so unexpected. Having lived in Singapore for 16 years and paying a great deal of attention to its history and architectural heritage, I thought I was aware of most of its important historical sites and buildings. Here was something right next door to where I lived that I had missed and that appeared to be forgotten. The name was “Istana Woodneuk”, and I knew enough Malay to understand that “Istana” ...

Welcome to the official Blog for my book Palace of Ghosts . This series of posts are going to be timed for the prelaunch and post launch of Palace of Ghosts : Singapore's Untold History. They are intended to provide readers with information about the author, about the creation of the book and a look behind the scenes that will provide additional and rich content related to the book's characters, events, locations. I intend to add news stories and other items that may arise and that turn out to be linked to the story. In the heart of Singapore there is a patch of heavily forested land: it is private property and strictly off limits. Anyone caught trespassing risks arrest and a heavy fine. It is a strange and inaccessible place that harbours secrets and mystery. One of the biggest mysteries is why it is even there? Singapore has the third highest population density of any country in the world. It is severely land constrained and the government is pretty good at managing what land...